Bleeding the clutch hydraulics
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 29th November 2019, 6:48 pmHi everyone, having not used my B GT LE for a month I found the clutch pedal having no resistance. I have changed the slave cylinder and there was no improvement and this morning the master cylinder and still no change UNLESS I pressurise it with my Eezibleed system when the pedal feel seems normal. As soon as the pressure is removed there is almost free pedal travel.
I have now gone through about 1 ltr of fluid in trying to expel air. What am I either not doing or doing wrong.
Any help appreciated.
Peter
Hi everyone, having not used my B GT LE for a month I found the clutch pedal having no resistance. I have changed the slave cylinder and there was no improvement and this morning the master cylinder and still no change UNLESS I pressurise it with my Eezibleed system when the pedal feel seems normal. As soon as the pressure is removed there is almost free pedal travel.
I have now gone through about 1 ltr of fluid in trying to expel air. What am I either not doing or doing wrong.
Any help appreciated.
Peter
Quote from oldpoll on 21st December 2019, 10:07 pmHi Peter
It may not apply to yours but when you changed the slave cylinder did the bleed valve end up at the top of the cylinder, ie above the flexible hydraulic hose entry point? A few years ago some new cylinders had the bleed valve at the bottom so hey presto lots of air can not be bled out!
ChrisP
Hi Peter
It may not apply to yours but when you changed the slave cylinder did the bleed valve end up at the top of the cylinder, ie above the flexible hydraulic hose entry point? A few years ago some new cylinders had the bleed valve at the bottom so hey presto lots of air can not be bled out!
ChrisP
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 22nd December 2019, 7:37 amThanks for that and yes the bleed nipple is at the top. Current status is that I have just got clutch disengagement but the first 2 inches of clutch pedal travel is not moving the slave cylinder - so I am waiting for better weather before I try again - and some new ideas !
Thanks for that and yes the bleed nipple is at the top. Current status is that I have just got clutch disengagement but the first 2 inches of clutch pedal travel is not moving the slave cylinder - so I am waiting for better weather before I try again - and some new ideas !
Quote from oldpoll on 28th February 2020, 4:06 pmHello Peter
Did you ever resolve this clutch bleeding problem? If so HOW?
The reason I ask is that after successfully bleeding new brake fluid through the complete brake circuit (loads of muck came out of there) I decided to bleed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics too. Mistake!
I did not disconnect or replace any thing on the clutch circuit, same master same slave cylinders. Using Easibleed to pressure feed the fluid in to the clutch master cylinder and with a friend peddling the clutch for me & shutting the bleed nipple at each down stroke end, I can now JUST achieve clutch disengage with the left 'peddle on the metal'. It used to be better than that.
Any one got any clutch bleeding ideas please?
ChrisP
Hello Peter
Did you ever resolve this clutch bleeding problem? If so HOW?
The reason I ask is that after successfully bleeding new brake fluid through the complete brake circuit (loads of muck came out of there) I decided to bleed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics too. Mistake!
I did not disconnect or replace any thing on the clutch circuit, same master same slave cylinders. Using Easibleed to pressure feed the fluid in to the clutch master cylinder and with a friend peddling the clutch for me & shutting the bleed nipple at each down stroke end, I can now JUST achieve clutch disengage with the left 'peddle on the metal'. It used to be better than that.
Any one got any clutch bleeding ideas please?
ChrisP
Quote from oldpoll on 28th February 2020, 4:07 pmHello Peter
Did you ever resolve this clutch bleeding problem? If so HOW?
The reason I ask is that after successfully bleeding new brake fluid through the complete brake circuit (loads of muck came out of there) I decided to bleed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics too. Mistake!
I did not disconnect or replace any thing on the clutch circuit, same master same slave cylinders. Using Easibleed to pressure feed the fluid in to the clutch master cylinder and with a friend peddling the clutch for me & shutting the bleed nipple at each down stroke end, I can now JUST achieve clutch disengage with the left 'peddle on the metal'. It used to be better than that.
Any one got any clutch bleeding ideas please?
ChrisP
Hello Peter
Did you ever resolve this clutch bleeding problem? If so HOW?
The reason I ask is that after successfully bleeding new brake fluid through the complete brake circuit (loads of muck came out of there) I decided to bleed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics too. Mistake!
I did not disconnect or replace any thing on the clutch circuit, same master same slave cylinders. Using Easibleed to pressure feed the fluid in to the clutch master cylinder and with a friend peddling the clutch for me & shutting the bleed nipple at each down stroke end, I can now JUST achieve clutch disengage with the left 'peddle on the metal'. It used to be better than that.
Any one got any clutch bleeding ideas please?
ChrisP
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 28th February 2020, 4:19 pmYes ! eventually I solved it. Remove the SC and compress the piston in to its stop limit but ensuring you drain off excess fluid in the MC as the fluid rises. Suspend the SC vertically so that the inlet pipe is at the top. I then heard a 'plop' as a trapped air bubble rose through the pipe and out of the MC.
I also replaced the SC pushrod and gudgeon pin as these showed slight oval wear.
Then I had a good clutch again after 3 months of on and off trying and over 2 litres of fluid used. Who would have thought that a simple MC to SC link could give so much trouble !
Yes ! eventually I solved it. Remove the SC and compress the piston in to its stop limit but ensuring you drain off excess fluid in the MC as the fluid rises. Suspend the SC vertically so that the inlet pipe is at the top. I then heard a 'plop' as a trapped air bubble rose through the pipe and out of the MC.
I also replaced the SC pushrod and gudgeon pin as these showed slight oval wear.
Then I had a good clutch again after 3 months of on and off trying and over 2 litres of fluid used. Who would have thought that a simple MC to SC link could give so much trouble !

Quote from Bob Hubbard on 6th March 2020, 8:17 amNow you know why its called "Bleedin Clutch"
Now you know why its called "Bleedin Clutch"