Long brake travel
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 4th October 2019, 10:40 amHi everyone, I have just purchased a 1981 GT LE which is in very good all round condition. I have been doing the usual fettling of a number of small issues but cannot improve the very long foot brake travel. Rear shoes adjusted up, rear cylinders replaced and all brake hoses too. Have tried bleeding from rear to front several times but no improvement at all. Brakes do pull up evenly and well but only after considerable travel. Any ideas on improving matters greatly appreciated.
Peter
Hi everyone, I have just purchased a 1981 GT LE which is in very good all round condition. I have been doing the usual fettling of a number of small issues but cannot improve the very long foot brake travel. Rear shoes adjusted up, rear cylinders replaced and all brake hoses too. Have tried bleeding from rear to front several times but no improvement at all. Brakes do pull up evenly and well but only after considerable travel. Any ideas on improving matters greatly appreciated.
Peter
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Quote from Ian Cass on 4th October 2019, 3:46 pmMake sure to check the cotter pin that joins the top of the pedal to the master cylinder. It might be worn and/or the holes might be oval. You can access it from the engine bay but you'll need to remove the inspection panel for access.
Make sure to check the cotter pin that joins the top of the pedal to the master cylinder. It might be worn and/or the holes might be oval. You can access it from the engine bay but you'll need to remove the inspection panel for access.
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 5th October 2019, 11:59 amThanks for that tip Ian. Just checked and there is virtually no play at that point. Now I am at a loss at what to check/put right next.
Peter
Thanks for that tip Ian. Just checked and there is virtually no play at that point. Now I am at a loss at what to check/put right next.
Peter
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 14th October 2019, 6:39 amNew MC just fitted but no improvement. Finding constant air in lines each time they are bled - any ideas why, really appreciated.
New MC just fitted but no improvement. Finding constant air in lines each time they are bled - any ideas why, really appreciated.

Quote from Ian Cass on 15th October 2019, 8:23 amI've got to the stage in my project where I could bleed the brakes so I put some brake fluid in mine last night & started the job. The rears bled fine but the fronts are just bone dry. There's no fluid leaving the master cylinder. So, I'll dismantle the MC tonight to see what's wrong. If it's knackered, I'll probably need a replacement. Want to sell me your old one? 🙂
I've got to the stage in my project where I could bleed the brakes so I put some brake fluid in mine last night & started the job. The rears bled fine but the fronts are just bone dry. There's no fluid leaving the master cylinder. So, I'll dismantle the MC tonight to see what's wrong. If it's knackered, I'll probably need a replacement. Want to sell me your old one? 🙂
Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 15th October 2019, 2:54 pmHi, the old MC was probably ok all along as the new one has made no difference. However when I turned the underneath plastic warning inbalance light switch the metal shaft sheared off. If this is acceptable then its available for £10 plus postage, a fraction of what the new one cost me. The risk of it working has to be yours Ian.
Regards
Peter
Hi, the old MC was probably ok all along as the new one has made no difference. However when I turned the underneath plastic warning inbalance light switch the metal shaft sheared off. If this is acceptable then its available for £10 plus postage, a fraction of what the new one cost me. The risk of it working has to be yours Ian.
Regards
Peter

Quote from Peter Derbyshire on 15th October 2019, 3:54 pmThe shaft on the switch Ian
The shaft on the switch Ian