Forum Navigation
You need to log in to create posts and topics.

Lowering My Jube

PreviousPage 2 of 4Next

It all depends on what your final goal is really. I personally wouldn't bother with things like lightened flywheels unless you have had the engine tuned/rebuilt in which case it will be balanced with the new engine. TBH I would stick to spending your pennies on rebuilding the suspension and adding handling packages, and obviously maintaining the rest of your Jube, so that when you do go for a hotter engine everything will be in place. Also you will be surprised how much more fun you can have by your MG being able to go around corners faster.

If it ain't broken don't try to fix it as if you do it will definitely break

Grat thanks for the advice, I will lay off any engine upgrades then, and just get it running all smoothly.

If all goes well, I should get my car back tommorow, and then thats one thing off the list.

Finally done this!

Well, half of it.

Brought myself a lowering kit a few weeks back, and now that the sun has come out, I spend the weekend putting the new front springs in.

Was very simple and easy really.

Got a few cuts and scrapes trying to loosen some stubborn rusy bolts, but other than that, the change was easy.

Definitely looks lowered now.

However, It might be because it hasn't settled and I shall check it in a few days, but the drivers side is a tiny bit higher than the passenger side.

Also is you push up and down on the car on the front passenger side, the suspension feels nice a springy, but on the drivers side, it feels stiffer, which I thought may be the cause of the lop sided ness.

Any reason that could cause this?

Anything I should check?

I shall be doing the rear blocks soon, any advice on how to do this?

I know where the new rubber pads on the rear go, but I couldn't find where to replace the rubber bushings on the front suspension.
Where abouts are they, my suspensions is probably so black and dirty, I couldn't see it.

Has the coil spring on the drivers side defiinitely seated properly in the ring at the top and bottom? I'd measure to check the top of wheel to wheel arch to make sure but if it is different you may have to loosen things off and tap the spring home properly-although a drive down a bumpy road may do this for you anyway.

I know where the new rubber pads on the rear go, but I couldn't find where to replace the rubber bushings on the front suspension.
Where abouts are they, my suspensions is probably so black and dirty, I couldn't see it.

Are you talking about the front of the rear springs if so they are a pushfit into the front of the spring itself & are good fun to change. The rear end being 4 bushes per side on the rear spring shackle brackets

.

If it ain't broken don't try to fix it as if you do it will definitely break

Ditto on Colin's comment. On the upper part of the area where the spring goes, theres a cup where the spring should sit around. If its not located around this ring, could be causing your height difference.

On the above pics, you should see the red spring I fitted. On each end there is a locating type ring which keeps the spring in place. Just double check it is, if not, just tap it into place and all should be fine. Although when you tap it, do it jacked up!

Pete

Yep, I had that issue with the other spring and sorted it, but it might just needs a run in.

It wont stay at the height you've got it at the moment. As the front end is pretty heavy, the springs will settle some more and you'll get the full drop in a few months time.

As you can see from the improved ride height image, that was taken more less 18 months ago. The wheel is now level with the arch, so its dropped another 3-5cm over the time it has settled

Are creaks ever now and again normal of it settling in then?

Well I've only heard it creak on full lock reversing out my drive on one side.

Also is you push up and down on the car on the front passenger side, the suspension feels nice a springy, but on the drivers side, it feels stiffer, which I thought may be the cause of the lop sided ness.

I had that same issue a year or two back and found that the inner bushes (ie the ones on the lower arms) had rusted to the suspension pivot, so the only movement was coming from flexing of the bush. I replaced the (original type) bushes with poly bushes (without the metal sleeve) and haven't had the problem since. Not sure if you replaced all the bushes when you did the springs but i would recommend that you do, and also check the condition of the king pin holes for roundness in the lower arms (especially if you find that the bushes are rusted up).

Yes, I thought it might be that, as the side I have has the issue with was so much stiffer than the other.

It is probably the bushes then.

I do have myself some rubber ones that came with the springs, but I might go all out at some point and look at completely giving the front suspension a makeover, including poly bushes all around.

I am thinking that a lot of the parts of the suspension (IE bigger metal bits such as spring pan) can be removed, cleaned of all crap and rust, and then resprayed, to save me some cash on just buying a whole new system.

I Don't think I will touch the rears just yet, one thing at a time (Or 6 in my case)

PreviousPage 2 of 4Next