Wheel Bearing Question.
Quote from d-Pete on 3rd November 2009, 11:32 amHey all, Hope someone can help with my problem.
I'm replacing the wheel bearings on the front of the Jube, the first time I have undertaken such a task. Everything came apart nicely, didn't even need the hub puller! Unfortunately I am now struggling to get the new innner bearing over the stub axle. Should the bearing be so tight? Are there any techniques that'll make things easier?
Any help would be appreciated.Thanks.
Pete.
Hey all, Hope someone can help with my problem.
I'm replacing the wheel bearings on the front of the Jube, the first time I have undertaken such a task. Everything came apart nicely, didn't even need the hub puller! Unfortunately I am now struggling to get the new innner bearing over the stub axle. Should the bearing be so tight? Are there any techniques that'll make things easier?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Pete.

Quote from Colin on 3rd November 2009, 3:05 pmHi Pete
Have you tried fitting the bearing on its own onto the stub axle as it should be a slip fit? If it doesn't fit let me know the reference off of the bearing/compare it with the old one to see if it is the same-The inner should read 67048? Did you replace the bearing races/tracks from the hub-they need to be knocked out with a drift?
If you have any problems/knacker a seal etc. let me know as I used to supply the MGB hive with both front & rear bearing kits and still have some spares? Don't loose the shims
[img]https://www.mgbjubilee.com/images/Front%20wheel%20bearing%20replacement.jpg[/img]
good luck:D
Hi Pete
Have you tried fitting the bearing on its own onto the stub axle as it should be a slip fit? If it doesn't fit let me know the reference off of the bearing/compare it with the old one to see if it is the same-The inner should read 67048? Did you replace the bearing races/tracks from the hub-they need to be knocked out with a drift?
If you have any problems/knacker a seal etc. let me know as I used to supply the MGB hive with both front & rear bearing kits and still have some spares? Don't loose the shims
good luck:D
Quote from d-Pete on 4th November 2009, 1:00 pmThanks Colin, that's exactly the info I needed. The inner bearing does not slip over the axle so it must be the wrong one, I still have all the old parts (including shims) so I'll measure and compare.
I replaced the races to be on the safe side although they were not badly worn or pitted.
What book is the reference material you posted from? My Haynes manual is nowhere near as detailed or descriptive.
Thanks again.
Thanks Colin, that's exactly the info I needed. The inner bearing does not slip over the axle so it must be the wrong one, I still have all the old parts (including shims) so I'll measure and compare.
I replaced the races to be on the safe side although they were not badly worn or pitted.
What book is the reference material you posted from? My Haynes manual is nowhere near as detailed or descriptive.
Thanks again.

Quote from Colin on 4th November 2009, 3:30 pmHi Pete...Firstly, please don't take this the wromg way, you have got the larger bearing (67048) on the inbound side of the hub and not the other one-I'm sure that have but believe it or not it does happen.
The literature is from an original workshop manual used by the dealerships when our cars were new-it is useful, especially for the more advanced jobs, that the likes of Haynes don't explain. If you need any more info let me know and I'll post a copy on here?
Have you checked the old bearing reference against the new one yet-should be LM67048?
Hi Pete...Firstly, please don't take this the wromg way, you have got the larger bearing (67048) on the inbound side of the hub and not the other one-I'm sure that have but believe it or not it does happen.
The literature is from an original workshop manual used by the dealerships when our cars were new-it is useful, especially for the more advanced jobs, that the likes of Haynes don't explain. If you need any more info let me know and I'll post a copy on here?
Have you checked the old bearing reference against the new one yet-should be LM67048?
Quote from d-Pete on 5th November 2009, 2:44 pmThe references matched on the old and new bearing (can't remember the code now) but it appears the new one is slightly smaller in diameter and depth by a very small amount. I got a new bearing set delivered yesterday which looks correct but I haven't tried it yet as I wasn't keen on being out on the drive in the rain and dark but will have a go tonight. I'm sure the problem is due to the bearing not being to the correct specs and me not knowing if it was interference fit or not. I'll hopefully sort it tonight, I'll let you know!
Thanks.
The references matched on the old and new bearing (can't remember the code now) but it appears the new one is slightly smaller in diameter and depth by a very small amount. I got a new bearing set delivered yesterday which looks correct but I haven't tried it yet as I wasn't keen on being out on the drive in the rain and dark but will have a go tonight. I'm sure the problem is due to the bearing not being to the correct specs and me not knowing if it was interference fit or not. I'll hopefully sort it tonight, I'll let you know!
Thanks.
Quote from KenArmstrong on 6th November 2009, 10:58 amIt's getting the shims and the torque right that is the fun bit!:D
It's getting the shims and the torque right that is the fun bit!:D
Quote from d-Pete on 11th November 2009, 5:47 pmFinally sorted, the inner bearing was the wrong size although the part no was correct. Got a new bearing kit and everything fitted apart from the split pin that locks the castelated nut which was too thick and too long! I think I'll source all the bits independently when the next one needs doing.
Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated. 😀[quote]It's getting the shims and the torque right that is the fun bit![/quote]
Ain't that the truth!!!
Finally sorted, the inner bearing was the wrong size although the part no was correct. Got a new bearing kit and everything fitted apart from the split pin that locks the castelated nut which was too thick and too long! I think I'll source all the bits independently when the next one needs doing.
Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated. 😀
It's getting the shims and the torque right that is the fun bit!
Ain't that the truth!!!

Quote from Colin on 12th November 2009, 9:24 amGlad you got it sorted-the other side should be a breeze now
Glad you got it sorted-the other side should be a breeze now